Housing | Surface Buoy | Concrete Base | Deployment | Results | Conclusion |
This June I returned to my high school in Hawaii for a vacation. I got bored after a while, so I met up with my friend Marc Rice to work on a fun project. A while ago we worked together installing several remote cameras in neat locations for turtle observation. We often talked about how cool it would be to set up something underwater to observe a turtle cleaning station. In my absence, he had Sexton Photographics build us a custom housing for the Sony SNC-RZ30N network camera we'd used in the past. So, when I came back to Hawaii, we were excited to work together deploying the housing in the field. The housing is rated to 100 feet and has wet-pluggable connectors. There is enough space in the interior of the housing for a power supply (9V-15V input, 12V output) and a battery, if desired. Overall, we found the housing to be very well built and robust, although there are a few design changes I'd make for the next version. |
To provide network connectivity to a camera that is deployed in 40 feet of water 1200 feet offshore, we use a solar-powered surface buoy with a wireless access point. Shown to the right is the waterproof enclosure (found at a local hardware store) we used on the surface buoy. It contains a 12V lead-acid battery, an Apple Airport Extreme, and a 5V power supply (the Airport runs on 5V). To seal the box where the cable enter the box, we use 90 degree pipe fittings PVC cemented to the outside of the box. A 1" fitting is perfectly sized to fit around the base of an 8dB omnidirectional 2.4ghz antenna, so this provides a convenient weatherproof antenna mount. For further waterproofing there are rubber stoppers wrapped around the cables as they pass from the fitting to the box. The box is then bolted to a sheet of plywood, which is tied with ropes to a durable rubber inner tube. Ths provides a wide base, plenty of flotation, and simple rigging to the anchor. Ultimately we plan to add an LED to the top of the antenna to make the buoy more visible at night. The buoy is connected to the camera housing by an outdoor weather-resistat CAT5 UTP cable. Two pairs of the cable are used for power (at 12V) and the other two pairs are used for ethernet. |
To further strengthen the base we cut up a wire grid and set it inside the concrete. There isn't really a science to this. |
After pouring the concrete and inserting the bolts and the template, we carefully aligned the bolts vertically and adjusted the height of all of the hardware. |
The finished base! Very heavy, very solid, and fitting the housing bolt pattern perfectly. |
To suspend the base we used a three-point anchoring technique borrowed from rock climbing. Next, we wrapped a line from the base around the anchor line and let a bit more air out of the BCs. With help from a person on the boat, we slowly slid the whole rig down the anchor line towards the final location. Once the base was set down and untied, one person wrangled the camera in its housing down from the boat (it is very positively buoyant), and planted it on the base. Another person then bolted the housing down. |
After bolting the camera down, we connected up the cables and headed topside to see if it worked. |
Over the course of the project we had some insights about things that we could do better on the next version of the system. Mostly we were fairly satisfied with the result, but there are a few possible features that could be added or improved.
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